DAY 3
This morning, I was greeted by Mother Sun extending her warm, golden reach across the bustling city of Almaty and in through the thin veil of the hotel curtain onto my resting face. Awoken, I arose from my bed and engaged in the now-familiar routine of calling my Poly GIP family’s rooms with the hotel telephone to coordinate the consumption of our first satiable feast of the new day – breakfast. Having devoured the nourishment available at the hotel buffet, we departed in search of Bus 95. As we raced to the bus stop, many paused in awe as they finally caught a glimpse of the stunning mountains that envelop Kazakhstan’s largest urban center after many days of foggy, polluted air. Unfortunately, our amazement cost us the convenience of catching the desired bus, leading us to “hop on” Bus 121, our new ticket to the mountains.
After a long bus ride, we arrived at the foot of the towering mountains, greeted by the highest outdoor ice rink in the world and its accompanying sculpture, perfectly encompassing the brutalist architecture of the Soviet era. Contrasting the sharp angles and lifeless concrete, however, the grandiose alpine nature welcomed us to a world of pristine beauty. Trekking up the paved mountain road, many a traveler noted the delight of playing with the fresh layer of powdery snow that covered the mountain landscape; snowballs whizzed through the air as my group frolicked in the winter (kind of, it’s technically spring) wonderland, starkly juxtaposing my typical Southern California experience. I then boarded a gondola to an intermediate plateau that surmounted the once obscuring fog, giving me a new perspective on the scale of the mountain range. Never one to settle, I ventured further to the highest possible point of the peak, observing the streets of Almaty from which I had looked up just hours earlier.
Famished from my adventure, I took refuge in a Kazakh restaurant contained within the ski village. With great food came great views and perhaps even greater company; we inhaled the traditional Kazakh plov – a medley of rice, multiple varieties of carrots, raisins, and tender, succulent lamb -- and beshbarmak – a noodle dish submerged in a bone broth and ladened with horse meat. Comprehensively, undeniably stuffed, I waved goodbye to the mountain. On the return bus to the city center, I interacted with some local children, happy to find common ground in the globalized universality of modern pop culture. I then visited Dostyk Plaza, a bastion of Kazakh youth in the familiar comfort of commercial shopping. Perusing the myriad of purchasing opportunities, I ultimately settled on investing in the thing that matters most – spending time with the Poly family.
Following a brisk walk back to the hotel, I downed a familiar favorite for dinner: the nostalgic grub of the sandwich shop we visited on our very first morning in the city known as the father of apples. Today, I saw two sides of Almaty: a picturesque glimpse of the nature that encircles it and the vibrant consumerist culture that is common in many other global hubs. What was better? Who am I to say? All I know is that there’s no other group that I would rather spend this time with in an unfamiliar place that simultaneously harks back to many of the concepts that characterize “home”.
Kind and warm regards,
Daniel Rustem Ismagilov, Jasper Joseph Huckleberry Modjeski, and Oliver Hanson Marks.
DAY4
Wistfully frolicking amongst each delicate leaf, the crisp breeze meanders throughout Almaty’s cordial presence as we enter the wake of a new morrow. The ephemeral remanence of snow disperses along the stoic ground. An everlasting hum scatters above the bustling traffic. Pausing against the constant superficiality embedded within the notion of any tourist, we stopped to reflect the nature in which humanity inherently categorizes and labels ourselves, further diminishing our collective unity. Constructing our own honest poems, the words scrambling along our individual papers came to encapsulate the dichotomy of how we are perceived and truly exist through individual culture. Perhaps only if we acknowledge one another’s truth can we embrace our shared culture. Our shared humanity.
In anticipation of our girthy supper, us Poly nomads decided on a feathery afternoon meal. Guzzle. Gobble. Grin. Familiar burgers blessed our palateS in the bustling I’m Café, a cousin to the American staple McDonalds. Awaiting us at our next destination was Ms. Bocquin’s comrade Sara, an awe-inspiring photographer who had worked with our worldly mentor in her excavations. Through her individual yet collective pieces, she shared her perspective on the continuity of every breath and our last. She dove into the deep ocean of interpretation: the hefty topic of motherhood and the female body image, emphasizing her experience as a Russian woman in Kazakhstan. Our battle mates Max Ismagilov, Ryan Kim, Justin Lee, and Oliver Marks all shared their astounding photography works with our unworthy eyes. They consisted mostly of travel and nature photos, examining the stillness of the seemingly unattainable. We then set off on our next path, grateful for consuming such incredible art.
Following the eye-opening photography sessions, we trailed our way to the local mall where we met students from Tian Shan International School (TSIS). We settled in a bowling alley where we split up into groups and started the exciting battle. This experience offered us an opportunity to get to know the students from TSIS; how it is like to live in Kazakhstan and go to school there. As the sky turned dark, we all made our way to the best Lagman restaurant called As-Qazan. Everyone ordered a different type of lagman; some consisted of beef, vegetables, chicken, and tofu. Dinner was also accompanied by a variety of delicious drinks. We all had nice long conversations which developed into lifelong friendships with the TSIS students.
When the sun refused to shine no longer, we took our old friend, the charter bus, back to our hotel, as we nestled our listless bosoms into a toasty bed, we waited for our next adventure.
Hugs and Kisses,
Mia Julianne Chang, Jemma Yuan, Celine Chao
DAY 5
This morning, we awoke to the medley of melodic calls of native Kazakh wildlife, and the bustling sounds of the urban city. After being greeted by a delicious international breakfast, we eagerly met in the lobby, ready to tackle the day ahead. The frigid temperatures enveloped our bodies as we scurried to the mosque to experience a prime example of the intersection between religion and culture. The golden domes of the minarets, contrasted with the quartz stones, created a regal appearance. Clad in modest head scarves and flowing skirts, we waited for the service to begin. Much to our dismay, we were informed that we could not be granted entry into the mosque due to the religious celebration of Ramadan.
Despite the setback, we made the best of our situation and headed to the Green Bazaar early to shop for various souvenirs and gifts (for you, parents, too!). Once we arrived, we split into groups to explore the various kiosks and booths, displaying items such as honeys, nuts, toys, leather products, wool, and even faux designer watches, which some members of the group chose to purchase using the Kazakh currency called Tenge. Our group even visited a chocolate shop, and we explored the various types offered, some including nuts, fruits, and various wafers.
Satisfied with our purchases, we indulged in a meal of various noodles and soups at a common chain restaurant in Kazakhstan called Lanzhou. As we ate, we exchanged our various experiences and stories with our peers and found solace in the comfort of our shared environment. We then boarded the metro, overflowing with the anxious energy of local commuters and the eagerness and awe of tourists. As we arrived at our hotel, we spent the following hour resting, playing games and preparing for the adventure ahead at a local art museum. The range of artistic expression at the art museum conveyed a series of meaningful themes centered around Kazakh cultural identity and expression, through the works of paintings, sculptures, and artifacts dating back to the 1500s. We each chose one piece to fixate our attention on, spending time to notice smaller details and hidden meanings to later discuss in the evening.
As we returned to the hotel, we spent an hour of our time winding down for the night. Then, we all gathered to discuss our days over a meal of doners, engaging in intense conversations. To conclude the night, Ms. Bocquin surprised Ryan with a delectable caramel cake and traditional Kazakh candies to celebrate his 15th birthday. We look forward to our future endeavors in Kazakhstan!
Warmly,
Christiane (Annie) Grace Kim Delbridge, Amari Grace Miller, and Lauren Sydney Poplock
DAY 6
Today, we started off with a morning stroll to the Vanilla Cafe. Several of us ordered a raf (раф), a coffee made with condensed milk, espresso, and vanilla which are mixed and heated together.
Shortly after, we hopped on the Metro for an enlightening meeting with a Kazakh artist who shared her work and reflected on her conflicted childhood identity. Some of her work included sculpture crafted from recycled plastic soda bottles collected near Almaty. However, her main works consisted of paintings on linen reflecting her desire to reconnect with her culture through cultural symbols and traditions.
For lunch, we went to a cafeteria-style restaurant to experience a ‘normal’ yet diverse spread of food available in Kazakhstan. Due to language barriers, we ended up with some food we would never have tried such as Borscht and breaded meat (not sure what meat). Nevertheless, we wholeheartedly enjoyed tasting new and exciting dishes.
After lunch, we walked through a park dedicated to Panfilov’s military brigade, the army which had defended Moscow from the German invasion in World War II. We passed artillery, statues, and rockets as we headed to the Museum of Musical Instruments.
From the outside, the museum popped out from its surroundings with a bold, traditional Russian architectural style accented with Kazakh ornaments. Once inside, we learned about and experienced the rich musical heritage and history of Kazakhstan. We were told one particular story about how the dombra received its traditional hole. In legend, a local leader declared he would pour molten metal down the throat of the messenger of his son’s death. However, a creative bard decided to break the news through song with his dombra. When the leader prepared to pour molten metal down the bard’s mouth, the bard claimed that the dombra had broken the news, not him, so the leader poured the metal into the dombra instead.
We then continued through the park, passing an imposing brutalist monument dedicated to Panfilov’s brigade. We then arrived at the Ascension Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox cathedral, the second largest wooden construction in the world. Inside, the cathedral was extensively ornamented in elaborate paintings, gold surfaces, and murals of the scenes from the Bible. We were taught that Orthodox cathedrals are so ornate because they are intended to give the stepping inside God’s throne room.
After returning to the hotel, we ate an early dinner of a truly traditional Kazakh food, KFC. Then, we dressed up and headed to the Abay Opera House to watch a Kazakh opera. The performance was phenomenal and on a scale we had never seen before. It told the story of two of Genghis Khan’s sons as they fought over a bride. What made it truly unique was the pit orchestra containing some of the traditional Kazakh instruments that we had seen earlier in the day at the museum. While the Russian speakers in our group told us that the English translations of the lyrics were not very accurate, we all collectively enjoyed the performance nonetheless.
Finally, after riding the metro back to the hotel, we retired for a late end to our eventful day, marking the halfway point of our travels in Kazakhstan. We’re looking forward to what the rest of our time has in store for us.
Yours truly,
Ryan and Justin
DAY 7
A familiar, warm sun pranced across my resting eyelids, beckoning the call of a new, ever-eventful day. Today’s itinerary was a long one; a trip to the mall, and yet another theatrical performance.
I was brimmed with breakfast and excitement as I boarded a familiar aid: Bus 121, who had so gracefully carried me to the foot of the mountains just days before. This time, however, it dropped me off at the commercial behemoth that is the Mega Mall. As I walked the marble-trimmed halls, I felt as if I could get lost in the seemingly endless, near-labyrinthic network of storefronts. My exploration of the supercenter led me to discover local favorites, like Im Cafe – a McDonald’s-esque concept dishing out tasty burgers –, and familiar American comforts, like Popeyes Louisiana Fried Chicken. Satiated, stuffed, and eager for more, I set off on the next adventure of the day.
After some waiting, I finally hailed the 63A bus, a new, but equally-welcoming coach. The autobus carried me through a new side of town. With newly-constructed highrises and an unobstructed view of the imposing mountains that mark the outskirts of the metropolitan area, this locale directly juxtaposed the post-Soviet brutalism of inner-Almaty, refashioning it with sleek and modern design. With eager eyes and ears, I entered the impressive Almaty Theatre. These stone halls were soon to be graced with a moving and meaningful performance – a rendition of a story by the Almaty Autism Centre. This play, acted by members of the centre – including those with autism –, described a tale with a significant moral lesson: making a friend is always better than keeping a foe. When comparing this performance to last night’s, some differences are apparent. A commonality, however, is present in the passion and theatrical spirit that the casts shared. I ended my time in the theatre with a closing recession in the lobby, where we congratulated the actors on their stellar production.
The action-packed day had worked up my appetite; and, thus, it was sated by a delectable Southern Indian feast, where I enjoyed Butter Chicken and Naan. As I sit here reflecting upon the day passed, I keep close the memories that I have made, and from now on will cherish, with my Poly GIP Family. Goodnight Almaty.
With much sincerity,
Max Rustem Ismagilov and Oliver Hanson Marks
DAY 8
This morning, we awoke to a blissful sunrise penetrating our window, basking us in golden radiance. “Finally”, we thought upon stepping outside, greeted by the warm vernal air, “the cold has ceased.”
Setting off at a brisk pace, we descended into the bowels of the city in order to catch the Metro to school. Upon arriving, we fractured into a myriad of groups, who were then assigned a variety of pedagogical tasks.
One group, exempli gratias (latin for “for example” or, e.g.), acquiesced to assist a younger group of 1st to 2nd graders with literacy and penmanship. The children eagerly subsumed the knowledge provided, as they improved critical skills such as sentence construction.
Another group constructed a theatrical performance, and executed the production as an icebreaker activity with drama and flair. They went on to venture to a delicatessen to sample local Kazakh morsels. Upon returning to the school grounds, that very same group engaged in lighthearted and physical activities including, “sharks and minnows” and “freeze tag”.
The final group, comprised of largely upperclassmen and equal genders, exposed their truest experiences and most succulent advice to the students.
After a satiating lunch to fulfill our voracious appetites (i.e. laghman, shashlik, and salad), we journeyed to the location of the 2022 Kazakh uprisings that led to the deposition of the then president Nursultan Nazerbayev, where we saw a stark memorial that commemorated neither the violence nor the people lost, but the Kazakh identity as a whole.
After a quick campus tour led by the individual who graciously recounted his life experiences for our benefit last Monday, we conducted a quick escapade to one such “Korean Street Food” restaurant. After a short period of waiting, we received our meal (the ramen was an instant hit). Absolutely thrashed by our meal and soaked in joy, we expedited back to our residence to retire for the night.
With fondness and gratitude, fare thee well!
-Max Fleischer Herman, Aikam Singh, Jerry Guang Xuan Fu
DAY 9
René Descartes once said, “I think, therefore I am.” Is this true? Who am I to say? But if he had said, “I visit Tien Shan International School to interact with pupils hailing from all stretches of the globe who occasionally share a similar age group, therefore I am,” then boy oh boy would I am today. After a good night’s rest, many awoke to a prank call from fellow students (still at large):
“April fools!” the anonymous mischievous rascals crooned.
“I should have known this was coming!” I begrudgingly retorted after waking up much earlier than my mentally outlined programme suggested.
Some of the Polytechnic Kazakhstan GIP family, including myself, embarked on a brief journey to Vanilla Cafe, a coffee shop that has began to taste like an old chum. I sipped on a raf (Once upon a time, a Brazilian individual named Rafael consistently insisted on ordering a drink that seemed peculiar: a shot of espresso amalgamated with sweetened condensed milk and thick, creamy cream and steamed to perfection. The drink, once considered a bad drink, thrashes the sipper with a combustion of sweet goodness that “pumps you up” (an English idiom that denotes the addition of energy into an individual’s conscience) for the day. It has become a favorite in many former Soviet countries and is now offered in many flavours (vanilla is my favorite)). Upon my return to the decadent lobby of the Astana International Hotel, I was filled to the brim with vigour.
“All aboard!” said the conductor as we boarded ship en route to Tien Shan International School (April fool’s! It was a train)
“Choo choo!” went the train (double April fool’s! It was a bus). Although the ride may have seemed interminable to the outsider, time with my friends made the voyage feel ephemeral. When I arrived at the educational institution (henceforth referred to as “E.I.”). I joined a group of first graders in writing biography reports on historical figures from Helen Keller to George Washington to Rosa Parks to Albert Einstein to Abraham Lincoln to Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., exposing the young children to concepts including segregation and relativity (E=mc^2). We then engaged with some of the students through a story exchange, allowing us to learn about them on a deeper level. Having completed my storytelling session, the familiar face of Mr. Jay, a tall drink of water whom I had met at the mall, welcomed me on a tour of the surrounding land before leading me into the gym to play basketball. After my aerobic excursion, I guzzled down some pizza from popular Kazakh chain Dodo Pizza, a popular Kazakh chain that sells pizza. Stuffed to near explosion by the well-known pizza from Kazakhstan, I traversed the couloirs of the E.I. and returned to the gymnasium for some more “sportsball”. Then, I went to a class covering Advanced Placement English Language and Composition, where students wrote practice essays to prepare for the grueling examination that will occur on 14th May. I then had my second storytelling activity of the day, learning about my wonderful partner’s experiences living in a foreign country.
After departing the E.I., I enjoyed a lovely dinner consisting of various skewered meats, known locally as shashlik. Then I got back to the hotel and went to bed. Good night, Almaty! Good night, Kazakhstan! Good night, Central Asia!
Most sincerely,
Jack Emmett Schugren, Jasper Joseph Juckleberry Modjeski, and Daniel Rustem Ismagilov
DAY 10
Gently caressing the delicate tips of our dainty noggins, the warm Kazakh sun streamed through the windows of our hotel, beckoning a new day. Eager to reconnect with the group of autistic children we met on Sunday, we sprung out of bed to swiftly prepare for the day ahead. While some of us early risers enjoyed a walk to the local cafe, while others enjoyed time to themselves to prepare for the day.
Chatter filled the air as us Poly nomads eagerly trekked to our charter bus, adorned with golden draperies perfectly framing the picturesque mountain scenery. Greeted by our gracious hosts of the day,, we exchanged heartfelt salutations before touring the autism center. We enjoyed icebreaker games in the morning, including speech and communication games. Throughout the morning, several bonds between the two groups began to emerge, and we quickly felt ourselves forming connections with the students at the autism center.
As we recognize today as National Autism Acceptance Day, we must remember that acceptance is a process, a journey that requires the effort of all, an effort defined by solidarity. There is a deliberate difference between acknowledging the existence of autistic communities and truly striving for acceptance. It is not enough to merely be aware. It is not enough to pity. We must actively work to dismantle the pre-existing systems embedded within universal culture that continue to perpetuate the stigma and oppression that ALL neurodiverse individuals (not merely limited to autism) face. We must actively work to cultivate a culture that accepts our collective humanity independent from the labels society enforces upon us.
Within our homely coupé, we perambulated to our next endeavor, the bird show. Us battlemates effusively awaited the spectacle. Out came three seemingly effulgent bird masters in comely Kazak raiment, sporting skinned mammals atop their cephalons. The first of the Aves species to emerge was a jocular young owlet, followed by two minatory falcons who swooped above in the cerulean sky, stupefying us. After the immeasurable performance, us Poly nomads held an arcadian bus ride to As-Qazan, the ever-so familiar Lagman restaurant. Upon arrival of our humble abode, head honcho Ms. Bocquin called the group to reflect on the ten day-long journey. We shared appreciation for our fellow GIP-trip hobnobbers, ending the eventful epoch with gratitudes.
Chuckles and giggles,
Lauren Sydney Poplock, Mia Julianne Chang, and Jemma Yuan
DAY 11
We awoke to the blissful sun casting a golden hue on our windows as we opened our eyes. We eagerly awaited our trip to the Vanilla Cafe to consume delicacies filled with rich sweetness and meals infused with a savory essence. When we returned from our excursion, we met in the lobby to embark on our last adventure. We unfortunately witnessed the departure of our bus seconds before our arrival, so we waited for the next bus. We rode to Atakent park to savor our final moments of Kazakhstan, taking in the picturesque mountain ranges and trees shining with dew drops of iridescent shimmer. We spent a total of three hours purchasing souvenirs, snacking on a nutritious and balanced meal of “ Im Cafe” (the equivalent to McDonalds), and enjoying the park, overflowing with majestic trees with barren branches, still hurt from the ferocious cold of the winter.
Then, we embarked on a crowded bus journey to the restaurant Navat. We enjoyed a hearty Kazakh lunch with various traditional dishes.
After a delicious meal that satisfied our cravings, we hiked to the gondola ride, lifting us to Kok Tobe, the highest point in Almaty. From atop, we explored the various amusement attractions including a rock climbing wall, a ferris wheel, and an upside down house. As we admired the sunset casting a golden glow on the mountains, we took our final group photo. We descended on the gondola surrounded by the illumination of the city lights. We walked through the plaza that greeted us on our first day, boarded the metro, and entered the doors of Astana International Hotel for the last time. This trip has been culturally eye-opening, as we all formed new bonds that will last a lifetime and shared experiences that contribute to the shaping of our cultural intimacy (something we learned about on the trip). We look forward to sharing our adventures with our loved ones!
Warmly,
Annie, Ryan, and Jerry
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